It is a wash, but I came out ahead
Posted on May 10, 2007
About a week and a half ago our washing machine decided it was time to not drain. I can appreciate that- you work and work without any love or compensation, I’d quit too. Julia made some calls and some repair shops don’t work on front loaders. We found one that did and the guy says that it is the pump and it is $49 to come out and the part is $400. My wife is so great- she calls me and tells me before havin the guy come out. I’m thinking “there is NO WAY that part is 4 bills.” So tell her to pass on it and I’ll figure something out.
I procrastinate for a few days then decided two things- ONE- I’ve observed several appliance techs and if they can do it, so can I. TWO- there must be a place I can get the part or parts needed online. After awhile I find 2 sites that’ll get you the part you need. The first says the part is $109- now we’re talking, but I knew that I could do better. And then I find it- the parts Mecca- AppliancePartsPros.com. What a great database where you can search by type or simply your model number (kenmore/whirlpool numbers must contain a “.” after the first three digits). I find my washer and the pump assembly… wait for it… wait for it… $93 bucks shipped. SCORE! I order it Sunday night and it arrives Tuesday- I LOVE good service AND fast shipping.
So here is the guide for those wanting to replace the pump assembly. The error codes displayed were SUDS, then F02. To be clear- I am not a service tech and make no warranty of the quality or accuracy of this guide- seriously I am not liable for your mistakes. Also if you’re using force you’re doing something wrong- none of these steps require elbow grease or blunt force.
Step 1: Unplug the Power. I didn’t need to move the machine at all-It is designed very well for front access.
Step 2: On my Kenmore Elite HE3 model # 110.42832200 you take off the 3 #20 torx screws.
Step 3: Familiarize yourself with the pump assembly and how it all fits together.
Step 4:Unplug the modular power adapter to the pump. It comes free with a slight depression from the top and pulls easily out. This is why I knew I could do it, it seems everything in this machine is very standardized – pretty much plug and play.
Step4: Disconnect the entry (because the water exiting the machine enters the pump)and exit (the hose that the water leaves thru that goes ultimately into your drain in the wall or into a tub if you live in Michigan) hoses by compressing the spring clamps. When you get the spring clamp open move it back further on the hose fitting, NOT off the hose and onto the pump assembly- this makes the reattachment easier.
I used lineman’s pliers and was able to come in directly from the side so as to get both portions of the spring compressed. I came in from the left for the entry and had to snake my arm from the right and behind the shock absorber to get to the exit hose clamp .
Step 5: Remove the pan head torx screw that holds the pump in place.
Step 6: Remove old pump by sliding it towards you and under the wire tray. Be careful of the wire tray- we don’t want to snag or pull any wires.
Step 7: Prep the new pump assembly by putting in the correct feet (they are marked US and EU) and front assembly with the rubber washer and bushing. Reverse your technique for getting the old pump out and secure it with the front screw. If you don’t secure it, putting the hoses back on is WAY more bothersome.
Step 8: Reattach the hoses, plug in the modular power to the pump, and put the cover back on.
You should be in business! Now you just saved yourself $350 bucks and it shouldn’t have taken more than half an hour WOO HOO!
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